21st Century Kilts on the Royal Mile marks 30 years and calls for hand-sewn kilt making to be protected

Howie Nicholsby has spent most of his life around kilts. The proprietor of 21st Century Kilts on Edinburgh's Royal Mile has been involved in the industry since he was 18, and his business is celebrating 30 years in the city, having opened in 1996.

Howie is the fourth generation of his family in the kilt trade, and he created 21st Century Kilts to make his own mark, with modern designs that are made in Scotland and made to be worn. His work has reached a global audience: he was commissioned by Glenmorangie to make a kilt for Harrison Ford for one of its campaigns, and Sir Billy Connolly has described him as being at the head of the movement to make the kilt an alternative to trousers all over the world.

Howie has been part of New York's Tartan Week since the early 2000s and has outfitted nearly every grand marshal. This year he accompanied actor Sam Heughan at the New York Tartan Day Parade, where Heughan wore a kilt of brown Harris Tweed, fully hand-stitched with a Galloway tartan fringe.

Now he is campaigning for the craft itself. Howie wants UNESCO protection for the art of hand-sewn kilt making, which he believes is at risk of being diluted by machine-stitched alternatives. He describes proper kilt making as hand-stitched work, and says his own kilt maker can make a kilt in 10 to 12 hours, with a waiting time of around 12 weeks.

Speaking to The Edinburgh Reporter in New York, he made a direct appeal for protection so that the art of hand-sewn kilt making does not die out for future generations. His wider argument is that supporting small makers is about protecting Scottish jobs and Scottish production, and maintaining what the country does well.

For anyone thinking about a kilt for a wedding or a special occasion, the campaign is a reminder of the skill and hours that go into a properly made garment.

21st Century Kilts is at 59 High Street on the Royal Mile, and appointments are recommended. Details and booking are on the 21st Century Kilts website.